1) Is the soil under my lawn hard and compact? If it is you could hire an Aerator to make holes in the soil that will help ease the compaction, or in a little lawn use a pitch fork.
2) Is your lawn spongy to walk on? A lot of thatch may cause problems, and make it annoying to walk on. The simplest method to fix this is to get your Honda lawnmower, and scalp it down, catching all of the clippings. You have to mow it very low, but ensure you leave some lawn above the soil. You really do not want just bare soil when finished. The lawn will go brown, but don’t worry. After a feed and a few waters it’ll return looking spectacular. Go to the Lawn mowing video on this website to see howit’s done. Never try this on Fescue, Rye grass, or Kentucky Blue Grass. This works well for Buffalo, Zoysia, Couch, and Kikuyu.
3) Fertilise your lawn now. Be sure you use a good slow release fertiliser. Yates Lawn Master, and Scots Lawn builder are two great slow release fertilisers. A follow up fertilise in early summer utilizing a summer blend is also a good idea.
4) Water well for 1st 3 to 4 weeks of Spring, especially if you have dethatched you lawn with your mowers. Then watering each four days also will help the fertiliser really get to work. After your lawn is healthy again you can back off the watering. If the water is running off the ground and isn’t getting in, try using a wetting agent which can help the water penetrate.
5) With regards to the lawn enthusiast, purchase a cheap PH tester from your garden centre. It will tell you if it is too acidic (Lower than 5.5), or too alkaline (above 7.0). A lawn likes it ideally between 6.2-6.5, which is just slightly acidic, but a little either side can still be OK particularly if fertilised well when using good slow release fertiliser. When your lawn is above 7 apply iron sulphate. If you feel lawn is below 5.5 apply lime or dolomite. Clay soils need more lime than sandy soils for that to work. 150 to 250 grams per square metre. When you are having problems with your lawn get a soil and tissue test. We will be investigating the best ways to do this on the Honda Lawn lovers web site.
6) Weeds. Before you decide to do any of these above, if you have a big infestation of broadleaf weeds, then spray them out first, then 2 weeks down the road do your spring maintenance. Considering that different types of lawns need different chemicals, check with your garden centre for which one to use.
7) Top dressing is a good way to fix pot holes and depressions located within your lawn. After a wet autumn and winter in some areas of Australia, many lawns have been left uneven. Spread a top dressing mix, preferably using a reasonable sand or sandy loam content on top of the lawn, with a a bit more left in the depressions. Employ the back of a rake or a level lawn to get it even. Be sure that a little of the leaf is showing. Never do this on Fescue, Rye grass, or Kentucky Blue Grass. This works well for Buffalo, Zoysia, Couch, and Kikuyu.
8) In shady areas, raise your mower’s height. If you have got dense overhanging trees have a look atpruning them to allow the lawn more light.
9) Fix the drainage around wet areas. Wet regions of turf aren’t just a real challenge to mow, but as the climate warms up, the lawn might get more disease. Consider using agline in appropriate areas.
10) Finally, have your mower ready for the season ahead. Have it serviced when it is due, and have the blades sharpened, or if necessary replaced. Sharp blades alllow for a beautifully manicured lawn.